When the Terroir Speaks

A few weeks ago, a select group of Masters of Wine (MW), Master Sommeliers (MS) and myself had the opportunity to visit one of Spain’s newest PDOs: Cebreros.

PDO Cebreros is located south of the province of Ávila and encompasses 35 municipalities.

Currently, only 11 wineries are registered in this new PDO, established in 2017. While the legislation and regulations are quite young, its winemaking history is remarkably extensive; one of the earliest documents found is a manuscript dated 1275 from the Bishop of Ávila, regarding the leasing of vineyards in the area.

Mountainous terrain, high altitude, and very old vines are the standout features of this small appellation. Over 56% of its vineyards are between 60 and 90 years old, with the highest plot located in the municipality of Navatalgordo at 1,200 meters above sea level.

The diversity of its sub-zones, the finesse of its wines, and the low-yielding vineyards are some of the unique traits that Sarah Jane Evans MW, Fernando Mora MW, Piotr Pietras MS, and I highlighted as evidence of undeniable potential.

Garnacha (red) and the white variety Albillo Real are the primary varieties used in PDO Cebreros, and these were the focus of our three intense and fascinating days of tasting.

What are the wines like?

We began with a local variety many of us were unfamiliar with: Albillo Real. It is aromatic and open, with tropical notes of mango, pineapple, and banana, balanced by hints of white flowers and salinity. On the palate, it is broad and almost luscious, showing characteristics of crème brûlée, dairy, and a delightful touch of white pepper and ginger—reminding me of the characteristics found in Viognier from France’s Rhône Valley.

The Garnacha from PDO Cebreros was the biggest surprise for all of us. As professional tasters, we often associate this variety with full-bodied wines, overripe fruit, high alcohol, moderate tannins, and low-to-medium acidity—much like those from Gigondas (France), the Barossa Valley (Australia), or Paso Robles (USA).

However, that perception changed the moment we tasted the wines from the fourth and fifth producers. We discovered incredibly aromatic Garnachas with fresh notes of strawberry and cherry, alongside violets and rose petals. On the palate, they were elegant with hints of wild herbs and rosemary, finishing with a stunning minerality of pebbles, broken rock, and granite. As we climbed in altitude, these qualities intensified. Even a seasoned taster like Piotr Pietras MS leaned in and whispered, “What a fine Garnacha! What was the name of this producer again?”

PDO Cebreros does not force producers to categorize their cuvées by time spent in oak (finally!). Most producers either avoid oak altogether or use seasoned barrels larger than 225 liters, such as Demi-Muids (600L) or even Foudres (1,000 to 1,500L).

It is truly admirable how a small wine region of just 410 hectares has reinvented itself so rapidly, considering that in the 1980s, almost all of its production was destined for bulk wine.

The technical masterclass provided by director Marta Burgos on history, terroir, climate, and vineyards demonstrated a clear and concise vision: “We want the wine to be made in the vineyard.” As Sarah Jane Evans MW noted after the presentation: “Wow… even in more established DOs, you don’t always find such a

comprehensive and precise masterclass. Well done!”

Without a doubt, the lasting impression of these days in the region is one of collective effort among all producers, starting with pioneers like Rafael Mancebo and Daniel Ramos, who have been joined steadily by small growers. This vision must now be solidified through a shared commitment that only they can successfully lead through unity, persistence, and dedication.

The task of developing the wines and the PDO Cebreros brand is in their hands. The quality is there, and the potential is undeniable. The only limits will be the ones they set for themselves.